Amalfi is the symbol of the namesake cost that includes 13 villages placed on the Salerno side of the Lattari hills. This territory is characterized by very steep slopes, by overhanging rocks and by cliffs creating a landscape made up by unique features and by a very striking scenario that has been added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

 

Amalfi is the most ancient Italian Seafaring Republic and it has always been a fascinating and proud city that has become some of the most famous tourist destinations in Europe. Amalfi is, in fact, an extremely picturesque city characterized by charming landscapes, by beautiful cliffs rising steeply from the sea, by a mild weather and by wonderful small beaches. The artistic and architectonic value of its monuments, the indescribable beauty of its landscapes and the folklore of its traditions have made Amalfi an incomparable place in the world.

 

This city is placed in little valley characterized by houses arranged in terraces following the dell’s side in front of the sea. Among the white walls of the ancient constructions (like the ex monastery of the Capuchins built in 1212), there are the flowering and smelling oranges gardens and everything is dominated by the Cathedral’s dome covered by coloured majolica. This monastery is quite completely ruined but you can still admire its beautiful XIII century cloister and its wonderful flowering lodge. From this point you can admire a fantastic landscape. 

Every year the ancient Seafaring Republic noble tradition is recalled by the traditional Historical Regatta organized in turn by the four Italian Seafaring Republics (Amalfi, Genova, Pisa and Venice).

Arriving to Amalfi you can observe the beautiful Tower of San Francesco now called “Saracen Tower”.  In this zone you can also admire the church of Sant’Antonio rising steeply from the sea. In this unique nave church you can admire valuable thirteenth-century frescos. On the hill there is the ex Convent of the Benedictines that is now a monumental cemetery.

 

At the beginning of the Viale delle Regioni there is the ceramic panel by Cossa that remembers the Amalfi deeds. Near to this panel there is Piazza Municipio.

 

Here there is the municipal building and the Civic Museum: here there is a precious XVII century paper copy of the “Tabula de Amalpha” that is an ancient seafaring code created during the XI century containing interesting information about the Seafaring Republic.

The centre of the city, ornamented by the beautiful Fontana del Popolo (Folks Fountain), is dominated by the imposing staircase of the Cathedral of Sant’Andrea.

 

This church has an Arabian- Norman façade and its inner space is characterized by polychrome marbles, silver decorations and precious paintings. Its golden ceiling is ornamented with beautiful frescos.

A marble narrow step will lead you to the XIII century crypt whose altar is dominated by the bronze statue of Sant’Andrea. Above this statue there is a precious urn containing the memorabilia of this Saint.

 

From the Cathedral you can have access to the ancient Basilica Del Crocifisso ( the Crucifix Basilica) that was built during the IX century: it is characterized by imposing columns containing very precious XIV century frescos. This church is now the seat of many conferences and concerts and of the Amalfi Diocese’s  treasure.

Near this church there the Chiostro del Paradiso ( the Heaven Cloister): this is a wonderful Arabian construction where there is now a collection of Roman and Medieval finds.

From the striking Piazza dei Dogi, climbing a steep staircase, you can reach the ancient Rione Vagliendola (the Vagliendola District). Here you can admire the church of San Biagio characterized by a simple structure and by the presence of valuable sixteenth-century paintings and of a wonderful ceramic floor that dates back to the end of the XVIII century. This church also has a beautiful Byzantine bell tower. 

Once in Amalfi you should visit the famous Valle dei Mulini (Mills Valley): this nature trail is considered by tourists one of the most beautiful sites of the world. In the Chiarito valley there were several ironworks, paper-mills, little ceramic factories and mills. Here you can visit:

• The wonderful Museo della Carta a Mano di Amalfi (the Amalfi Handcrafted Paper Museum) that is placed in an ancient paper-mill where you can see many original tools for the production of the “Bambagina” paper.
  

  The Museum's entry with its water fall

   

   

  

  Original ancient tool for the production of paper

   

•  The Museo dell’Arte Contadina (the Peasant Art Museum) where you can admire a collection of agricultural tools used in the Costiera Amalfitana during the last four centuries.

 

Other places that deserve your attention are:

- Antichi Arsenali della Repubblica Amalfitana (Ancient Arsenals of the Amalfi Republic): these arsenals testify the Amalfi glorious seafaring past.  Now it is possible to admire only 12 of the 22 ogival arches that arrived to the sea.

- Museo Provinciale della Ceramica di Raito – Vietri (Ceramic Provincial Museum of Rialto-Vietri): in this museum placed in the Villa Guariglia you can observe wonderful objects that recall all the hand-crafted ceramic production in Vietri. 

The Grotta dello Smeraldo (the Emerald Cave)

During your stay in Amalfi you should visit the wonderful Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Cave) placed in the Baia di Conca and full of stalactites and stalagmites that have created a fantastic atmosphere. Moreover every year on Christmas some divers set up on the cave’s bottom a white ceramics crib. To observe all the magnificent colours of this place you should just come into the cave when the sun is up and the sea is calm: you will see unique plays of light that colour all the internal space giving to this cave an unique charm. But the most impressive thing is represented by the several and imposing stalagmites that rise from the sea.

Gastronomy

Amalfi is well-known for its “Lemons Gardens”. This fruit was brought  in Sicilia and successively in Campania by the Arabs. The Costiera Amalfitana seems to be the best habitat for lemon trees especially for a peculiar local unique variety called the “sfusato amalfitano” that is even recognized by a specific certificate.

The Amalfi lemons like the “sfusato” (this name is due to the tapered shape of this fruits) have light yellow  parings and a juicy flesh with few seeds. Lemons are the real symbols of this territory being at the basis of many dishes, desserts and spirits.

For example staying in Amalfi you can taste the spaghetti al limone (lemon juice spaghetti) as first course, the alici marinate al limone (marinated  anchovies with lemon juice) a second course, the lemon cake or the lemon water-ice as dessert and finally the typical spirit called “Limoncello”: everything can be created or accompaigned by lemons.

The Amalfi cuisine belongs to the monks and nuns inventiveness who refined their culinary abilities in the quiet of their monasteries and convents. The “colatura di alici” (the anchovies juice) , the “melanzane dolci” (the sweet aubergines) and the “Santarosa” sfogliatelle are the example of their master handcrafting that has been handed down over time.

The delightful typical chocolate aubergines, in fact, come exactly from the monks sweet aubergines and the sfogliatelle cake “Santarosa” (made up by confectioner’s custard and black cherries in syrup) comes from the nuns hood shaped cake created by the nuns of the Santa Rosa convent.

Every meal should be accompaigned by typical local wines like the which one of Ravello, of Furore or of Tramonti that is red and characterized by a dry and compact taste.

Events

The events you can enjoy in Amalfi are the following ones:

- Festa di Sant’Andrea (the Saint Andrew Feast) – November, January and June

- Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare  (the Ancient Seafaring Republics Regatta) – May, June

- Capodanno Bizantino (the Byzantine New Year’s Day)  from the 31th of August to the 1st of September.

How to arrive to Amalfi and to the Costiera Amalfitana

To arrive to this coast you can use trains, buses and cars but there also are direct connections with the airports of Naple and Salerno. Obviously you can reach the coast even arriving by car.

By Plain:

-  The closest airport is which one of Pontecagnano inaugurated in September 2008. It is 40 minutes far from Salerno being connected to international and national cities. Coming from Salerno you can reach the Costiera Amalfitana going through the highway Reggio Calabria-Salerno until the Vietri sul Mare exit. After that you should go on through the winding and panoramic free road SS 163.

- Arriving to the Naples airport (well-known as the airport of Capodichino) you can reach the Costiera Amalfitana by train or by the hydrofoils service called the “Metrò del Mare” . To arrive to the urban centre from Capodichino there is the Alibus service: from 06:30 a.m. to 23:30 p.m. this bus will bring you both to the railway station (where you can take the train to reach Salerno) and to the stazione Marittima of Piazza Municipio where you can catch the hydrofoil. Its ticket costs € 3 and lasts 90 minutes: during this period of time you can also use other transport of the metropolitan service. Hydrofoils leave every 30 minutes and the ticket can be bought on board.

By Train:

To arrive to the Costiera Amalfitana by train the better solution is to arrive to the Salerno railway station. Here you can find the SITA buses that will bring you to the main cities of the coast. However if you prefer to arrive in Naples from the railway station of this city you can arrive to Salerno through the railway line called “circumvesuviana”. From Salerno you can catch the SITA buses for the main cities of the Costiera.

By Car or Motor bike:

Arriving from the North, after having travelled through the A2 highway Milan-Naples, you should go through the A3 highway Naples-Salerno until the Vietri Sul Mare exit. Then you should go through the freeway SS163. Coming from the South, you should go on the Reggio Calabria-Salerno highway towards Naples until the Vietri Sul Mare exit. Then you should go through the freeway SS163.  Coming from the East you should go through the A16 highway Bari-Naples, and then through the A3 Naples-Salerno until Vietri Sul Mare. Then you should go through the freeway SS163.

By Boats:

To arrive to the Costiera by sea there is the hydrofoils service called the “Metrò del Mare” that provides you with rapid naval lines that connect Naples to the main ports of the Costiera Amalfitana and Sorrentina. From the 23th of April to the 8th of September the hydrofoil leaves only once at 8:25 a.m. and the trip will last more or less two hours. From the 30th of May to the 7th of September the hydrofoil leaves three times from Naples: two times during the morning and one time during the afternoon and the ticket costs 15€.

…Enjoy your stay in Amalfi!

Related Articles:

The Byzantine New Year’s Day in Amalfi

Positano and its colours

The Sant’Andrea Feast in Amalfi

The Amalfi Lemon Cake

Naples and its unique atmosphere

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