“To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is to not have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.”

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, “Italian Journey”

Palermo is the main city of Sicily being placed on the namesake gulf surrounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea. Thanks to this strategic location this city has always been a reference point for the whole Mediterranean area and for its region itself: Palermo is, in fact, the main Sicilian political, economical and cultural centre.

Visiting this city you will admire a great quantity of monuments belonging to four different historical moments: the Arab-Norman architecture, the Low Middle Age and the Renaissance buildings, the XVII century Baroque art and the XVIII decorative art.

The Norman period was particularly florid: Palermo was the capital of the reign and so the Normans ornamented it with wonderful constructions that characterize still today its historical centre.

Placed at the middle of the Mediterranean area, this city has always been a cultural crossroads between the Eastern and the Western world preserving in its territory all the historical evidences left by its conquerors: from the Romans to the Byzantines, from the Arabs to the Normans, from the Svevi to the French, the Spanish and the Austrian conquerors. This union of different shapes and styles (from the North-European one to the African one, from the Middle Age to the Baroque period) is at the basis of the creation of very original artistic and architectonical works.

In the historical centre you can see the Norman constructions: from Piazza del Parlamento, dominated by the Normans Palace, to the imposing cathedral. From this square you can go towards the Baroque zone of the city identified by the two main streets called Via Maqueda (ornamented by its XVI century fountain) and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. These two streets meet in the octagonal square called Piazza Vigliena also named “Quattro Canti” or “Teatro del sole” (“Sun Theatre”) because in this point sun is always visible from the sunrise to the sunset.

In the four corners of this square you can see four different XVII century palaces whose façades have a convex shape. On each one these palaces façade there also is a basin surmounted by four statues representing the four seasons. The two streets that meet in this point form the four historical Palermo districts called “Mandamenti”: the Kalsa (or Mandamento Tribunali), the Loggia (or Mandamento Castellammare), the Seralcadio (o Mandamento Monte di Pietà), the Albergheria (o Mandamento Palazzo Reale).

Which one called Kalsa is the Arab district of Palermo: it was created near the sea in order to allow the emir to escape in case of revolt. Here there was all the Arab military detail together with their administrative and political offices and prisons. Today this is a very coloured popular district where you can still note the ancient Arab-Sicilian culture together with the strong smells of the food cooked by the several street kiosks. The centre of the Kalsa is represented by its namesake square but you should also admire the XVI century Porta dei Greci (Greeks Door) also called Porta d’Africa (African Door) through which you can watch the sea.

Some of the most important churches you can visit in Palermo are:

The Church of Giovanni degli Eremiti

This church was built on a pre-existing religious construction during the XII century becoming one of the most important evidences of the Arabs presence in Palermo. This aspect can be first of all seen observing its red domes and its internal ogival arches. This church is placed near the Normans Palace.

The Beautiful Assunta Cathedral

The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli or “Gancia”

The church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio or “Martorana”

The wonderful Monreale Dome

The Church of San Domenico

This baroque church was built during the XVII century while its façade dates back to the XVIII century. Its imposing internal part is made up by three aisles based on a Latin cross structure. Here you can admire many precious monumental works together with the graves of many important local personalities like Francesco Crispi whose grave is placed in the crypt. In the beautiful internal XIV century cloister there is the Museum of the Risorgimento. This church is considered one of the most important creations of the Sicilian baroque.

The Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia

S. Rosalia is the Palermo Patron Saint. This sanctuary was built in 1625 around the cave where her mortal remains were found. Inside the cave there is a beautiful statue of this Saint made by Gregorio Tedeschi in 1625. The cloak that covers it dates back to the 1748 because it was given by Carlo III of Borbone.

The Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo

This church is placed in the Kalsa district dating back to the XVI century. The peculiarity of this church is the fact that it has always been used for other aims different from the religious one. It is characterized by a fusion of different Gothic styles and now it is deconsecrated and used as a seat for meetings, concerts and theatrical shows.

The Church of Santa Teresa alla Kalsa

This one nave church is one of the most beautiful examples of Palermo baroque.

Oratorio del Rosario in Santa Cita

This oratory was built during the XVII century near the namesake church. This is the masterpiece of Giacomo Serpotta who was the best baroque decorator of that period.

The most important palaces and monuments you can see in Palermo are:

The Normans Palace and its splendid Palatina Chapel

The Villa Niscemi

Villa Niscemi, placed in the namesake district of Palermo, dates back to the XVI century being characterized by a wide surrounding garden. This is a Renaissance palace even if, visiting its interior space, you can also admire artistic decorations belonging to other historical periods. This construction can be visited for free from 9:30 A.M. to 13:30 A.M. and from 15:30 P.M. to 19:30 P.M.

The Pretoria Fountain

This wonderful XVI century fountain is placed at the middle of the namesake square. The surrounding railings were designed by Giovan Battista Basile and created in 1858. At its lower level there are oval basins supporting four statues representing four rivers.

The Zisa Castle

This is one of the most beautiful Arab-Norman constructions in Europe. Its name comes from the Arab word “al-aziz” that means “superb”. This wonderful XII century castle was built by Arab architects for king Guglielmo II d’Altavilla. Today in the beautiful ornamented rooms of this building there is the Islam Museum where you can find the evidences of the Arab culture in Sicily.

The Cuba

This one called Cuba is the last monument created by Normans in 1180 being, together with the Zisa Castle, the most representative Arab building in Sicily. It is a rectangular construction carrying four towers at the centre of each side.

The Aiutamicristo Palace

This beautiful palace was built in 1490 by Guglielmo Aiutamicristo. It is a Gothic-Catalan construction characterized by relevant Renaissance elements. You should note the main door and the double lodge of the internal courtyard.

The Botanical Garden

This wonderful garden was created during the XVIII century being still today one of the most important and widest botanic parks in Europe. It extends for 11 hectares where you can admire rare and precious grasses belonging to many different countries of the world: here, in fact, there are 12.000 different plant species like tropical, aquatic, carnivorous and exotic grasses together with healing herbs. You should also note some giant ficus magnolioides. This park is the seat of the Botanical Sciences College of the Palermo University and it is placed near Villa Giulia.

The Villa Giulia

Villa Giulia (also called Villa Flora) is a wonderful park whose structure is which one of the traditional Italian garden. Inside this construction there are precious artistic works like some busts of Palermo important personalities, like the Genius of Palermo with its XVII century wonderful fountain and like the beautiful fountain placed in the central square and surrounded by four neoclassical statues.

Two other many important places of Palermo are the Massimo Theatre and the Politeama Theatre

Some of the museums you can visit in Palermo are:

The International Museum of Puppets

Which one of the Puppets Theatre is a peculiar feature of the Sicilian culture. In this museum there is the most complete and important puppets collection in the world. Here there also are all the scenic equipment needed for these traditional performances. This collection is made up by 3500 puppets belonging to different countries of the world: all of them are handcrafted according to traditional ancient techniques. 

The Archaeological Regional Museum 

This museum is placed in the Palermo historical centre in the ex Benedictines monastery containing a great quantity of archaeological finds belonging to the whole Sicilian territory. However here you can also admire Etruscan, Phoenician and Greek finds. This is one of the most important museums in Italy and in the Mediterranean area.

The Regional Gallery of Sicily

In this gallery placed in the XV century Palazzo Abatellis you can admire paintings made in Sicily between the XI and the XVII century together with Arab carved wood objects, ceramics and some marble sculptures.

However, to better experience the Sicilian atmosphere you should visit the characteristic street market called Vuccirìa that is the most famous one in Palermo. You can find it between Roma street and Corso Vittorio Emanuele in the ancient Loggia district. This market offers everything you need, especially food. There also is another street market called Ballarò and placed in the namesake square in the Albergheria district. This probably is the most ancient food market in Palermo.

This incredible variety of artistic, historical and cultural treasures is surrounded by a wonderful natural landscape made up by a crystalline sea and by beautiful beaches that are very easy to reach. An important example is represented by the Mondello beaches.

Those who love trekking and mountains can find their ideal places visiting all the natural reserves and parks of the Palermo hinterland like the Madonie Park near Cefalù. You can also move towards Trapani to reach two veritable Sicilian marvels: the Zingaro Reserve and the ancient Segesta ruins.

Gastronomy

Among the first courses you can choose staying in Palermo there are the Spaghetti alla Norma, the bucatini with broccoli and pasta with anchovies.

As a second course you can choose among spiedini (skewers) alla Palermitana or anchovies cooked according to different recipes.

Another traditional dish is represented by the “Panelle”: rectangular appetizers made up by chickpeas flour, salt, pepper and parsley. They are fried in olive oil and sold by the street kiosks.

Other typical street appetizers are the “Sfincione” ( a sort of pizza dressed with tomatoes, anchovies and onion) and the “Pane ca meusa” ( a filled roll with lien).

As a dessert you can choose among the cassate, the granitas, the almond dough and the “Martorana” fruits (fruits shaped sweets made up by almond dough).

Events

IV Workshop Grab-It from 26 October 2009 to  27 October 2009

Teatro Massimo di Palermo, Season of opera and ballet 2009  from 01 January 2009 to 31 December 2009

Palermo Summer (Palermo Estate) From June to September:

From the first days of Junes to the end of September, many music, theatrical and folkloristic performances occur in the streets of Palermo.

Verdura Theatre – From June to September:

During summer the Massimo theatre is closed and so all the performances occur in the open-air Verdura theatre placed in Viale del Fante and provided with 2200 seats.

Santa Rosalia Feast – From the 9th to the 15th of July:

During the month of July, Palermo is used to celebrate its Patron Saint: Santa Rosalia. Celebrations last one week with travelling theatrical and musical performances connected to this Saint’s life. The most important moment of this feast is represented by the striking procession of the monumental float. At the end of this religious parade there is the traditional fireworks show.

Massimo Theatre – From October to May:

The Massimo Theatre Season starts in October and ends in May with ballets and opera performances carried out by international artists.

Morgana Festival – November:

This is a festival dedicated to the Puppets Theatre that takes place in the International Museum of Puppets. Here you can watch a series of shows carried out by the most famous families of the Sicilian puppets makers. These families preserve a peculiar tradition that has been recognized by Unesco as a “Mankind Oral Heritage and Non-material Heritage Masterpiece”.

Windsurf World Festival on the Beach – May:

Every year all the most famous windsurf champions are used to come in Palermo to take a part in the important World Festival on the Beach. During the month of May the beautiful Mondello beach becomes the seat of high level performances.

How to arrive in Palermo

By Car

Coming form Taormina you should go through the A18 highway until Catania and then go on through the A19 Palermo-Catania highway until Palermo. Coming from Agrigento you should go through the main road SS189 that, crossing all the Sicilan territory, will lead you until Palermo offering you a beautiful landscape. From Siracusa you should go through the main road SS114 until Catania and then go on through the A19 Palermo-Catania highway until Palermo. Coming from the continental Italian territory you should go through the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria highway until the Villa San Giovanni exit. At this point you can reach Messina by ferry. From Messina you should go through the A20 highway that will lead you to Palermo. Traffic in Palermo is very chaotic and so it would be better to leave your car in a secure parking in order to visit the city by foot or by public transports.

By Boats

This is a comfortable solution to reach Palermo carrying your car with you. There are two companies that offer this kind of trip:

- Grandi Navi Veloci carries out three lines: from Genoa there is a daily journey that lasts 20 hours; from Livorno the boat leaves three times in a week and the trip lasts 19 hours; from Rome Civitavecchia there is a daily journey that lasts 12 hours.

- The Tirrenia company connects Palermo to Naples every day and the trip lasts more or less 10 hours.

By Train

Thanks to its railway, Palermo is connected to the most important Sicilian cities like Taormina, Catania and Siracusa. From Rome there are trains that go towards Palermo via Naples even if the trip lasts more or less 13 hours.

By Plain

The “Palermo Falcone Borsellino” (PMO) airport offers direct flight connected to the main Italian airports together with low cost flights towards European cities like Amsterdam, Barcelona, Cologne, London and etc. The shuttle-train called “Trinacria Express” leaves every hour from this airport leading you to the Palermo Central Railway Station. You can also catch a shuttle-bus that leaves from this airport every 30 minutes.

…Enjoy you stay in Palermo!

Related Articles:

The Massimo Theatre in Palermo

The Palatina Chapel in Palermo

The Normans Palace in Palermo

The Assunta Cathedral in Palermo

The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli or “Gancia” in Palermo

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